The Deck, 2004


Before	During	After


	Trap door


Barely visible to the left are blocks of wood that have thus far carried the weight of the tongue. In a quake, it could twist sideways and drop.	Attaching a steel Simpson hold-down to hold the tongue in place. A cross beam is temporarily detached to make room for the drill & bit.	The weight of the tongue will tend to twist the bolted beam sandwich forward. The 2 steel straps grip the top of the beam pair to hold them back.

From below and behind, before the center beam was rehung. The hold-down normally helps keep walls from toppling in an earthquake.	A rubber washer cushions the steel post minimizing potential noise & wear. The angled bracket on the left holds 1 end of a 2x4	Framing against boulder will allow decking to contour the boulder. An aluminum foot straped to the wood rests solidly on the rock below.


The final framing for this deck is attached to hang out (cantilever) over the wash and over our sink's drain outlet	Notice the difference between last year's 2x8 and this year's. I only used 1 screw to attach them to allow for shrinkage. I'll add the other 2 screws when I return.	A narrow steel strap is recessed to tie the new piece solidly to the double beam. An aluminum footing is also attached below so it can rest firmly on the rock.

Again, a short 2x4 is attached to carry the decking that will wrap around the HD and almost butt against the rock		I will probably want to add a railing to this next year

The footing to the left fits nicely between the rock and the wood. Notice part of another footing to the right, over the bucket.		The interior edge of the deck has been cut to the shape of the trailer.

Front shot of the above mentioned footing on the right. The steel strap was shaped to fit the beam and is attached to the footing with 4 nuts & bolts.	From the rear. This one required a trapazoidal wedge to make it rest firmly on the rock and to keep the strap from bending out of shape over time.